Furlough of ten days to Walhalla Aug 4^th 63

Time passed pleasantly until on the 4^th August 1863 my turn for furlough had once again come around, and at last brought me my long looked for and anxiously expected trip to Walhalla, ten days being the time given; the thought of the pleasures to come made me one of the happiest mortals in existence when at 5 o’clock on the morning of that day I with two others likewise going on furlough [80] left camp in our wagon for Rantowle’s Station there to take the rail road, after a pleasant ride of 20 miles with spirits light as air, we reached there, it wanting yet a couple of hours of the time for the coming of the down train, we proceeded to dispose of the same in the best possible manner, eating melons &c. but all did not go far towards allaying our impatience at the seeming delay of the wished-for train; at about 3 o’clock the whistle gave notice of the approach of the same and we were soon knapsack in hand waiting its arrival, & having boarded it we were soon speeding towards our old city.

None but those who have experienced the feeling can know the joy that filled my heart at the thought that I was about to see my home, and loved ones again, though I had now to look upon them as separate pleasures, one to be enjoyed without the presence of the other. I was glad, too, at the release for a time, at least, from camp duties; for ten days no “reveille” would bid me rise from my slumbers and no “tattoo” summon me to fall in; in fact [81] I felt as if for that length of time I was a free man, and as such could come and go when and where I felt like. Having arrived at the city, I was soon convinced of the fallacy of my illusion when as about to cross the bridge that spanned the Ashley river at the foot of spring street - burnt by our forces in evacuating the city, I was accosted by a rough command; “Halt, Your pass?” and I soon became aware that I was yet a soldier whose first duty it is to obey. Having convinced the guard that I was “all right” as regards that important document I was allowed to pass on, and shouldering my knapsack, proceeded on my way treading the soil of old Charleston, as if no Brigadier General, no, not even the commander in chief could stop me, and soon reached Uncle Hartz’s where I was heartily welcomed, and where I established my headquarters while in the city. Having removed some of the dust and dirt of the camp and travel, I could not rest until I had taken a walk down King Street, meeting some of my friends and acquaintances on the way by whom I was cordially greeted. [82]

Charleston 4^th Aug 1863

Retiring that night to a soft and comfortable bed with my cousin William, I spent a most restless night, partly on account of the unusual luxury of a soft bed and from the impatient longing for morning to be again on the way; the first I remedied by getting up and spreading my blanket on the floor and taking it in true soldier style “on a soft plank.” though the mosquitos had nearly eat me up by morning. Having breakfasted, my first walk was to my old home, which I found sadly in need of its owners’ presence; having eat some peaches from one of the trees and rummaged in the garret for some things Mother wanted me to bring up, I bade “good bye” to the old place and went further down town to visit several friends before my departure for Walhalla, having paid my purposed visits and feeling tired from the unusual walk on the hard pavements I returned to Hartz’s, and prepared for my exit. By the kindness of my Aunt my haversack was well stored with eatables, more than the same had ever contained before; having bidden “adieu” to my relatives, and [83] thanked them for their hospitality, I proceeded on my way to the depot, where I arrived fully a half hour too early. Although as is usual on such occasions, time seemed only to pass at a snail’s pace, the hour of 7 P.M. came at last and with it the hour of departure.

Off for Walhalla

I bade farewell to old Charleston this time with a light heart and with every mile left behind my anxiety to reach Walhalla seemed to increase. I got off at Kingville and would have been left behind, had I not found out my mistake in time. By this time day was already breaking and at 7 o’clock the Greenville train left Columbia, so I saw there was a slim chance of our reaching there in time, and tended to increase my impatience, but the same did not increase the speed of the train, for when we at last arrived there, at 9 A.M. the up train had already left two hours before.

Laying over at Columbia 5^th Aug. 63

Here now was a whole day and night of the, to me, so precious time to be wasted, passed in a place where I was a total stranger; but “what could not be cured, must be endured” so [84] hailing a passing express wagon, the best in the way of conveyance a confed’ soldier could allow himself, I bade the driver take me to some quiet boarding house where I could get a bed for the night intending to make my meals of the contents of my haversack; he took me to the Washington House, a coincidence, kept by a widow lady, Mrs. Stratton, where I was kindly received, and shown a pleasant room, though in company with several others, to which I had no objections.

Columbia

Having taken a good wash I left the house to saunter through the streets of the city, being very careful to note how I turned the streets, lest I lose myself in their, though not labyrinthine to me strange depths. The new capital being of course my first object I soon stood before the portals, and regarded with pride its noble dimensions and longed to see it complete, a fit monument of our State’s grandeur, but alas! how has that noble building been debased in its use since then. In front of the same I found an old acquaintance in Werner’s iron Palmetto tree, the same having been purchased by the State as a [85] monument to the fallen of the Palmetto regiment in Mexico; the four brass plates of the base or pedestal bearing the inscription and names had been engraved at Mr. Bornemann’s shortly before the war and bore many a mark of my handiwork. I could not help thinking, as I stood before it how things change in this world, they had fallen in the service of the very government we were fighting against. Having satisfied my curiosity here, I went further visiting the Town Hall, Market, Sydney Park, a pretty little place, the Arsenal and several other buildings of note. Columbia was a pretty little city, with its many green trees; in passing through the streets I noticed many familiar names on the signs of persons whom the more near proximity of the dangers of war had driven away from Charleston, to, as they thought, a more safe place, on Main Street I met John H. Stendorff, who was there with Mr. Stenhouse, who had also removed from the city, having had a talk with him I returned to the boarding house, took a snack in place of a dinner, and though a good bona fide one [86] would have been more welcome, I relished it, as it was nevertheless. Having finished my repast I again proceeded on my tour of observation until approaching darkness and tiredness warned me to seek my temporary quarters, and after a supper from my now fast decreasing store of eatables, I retired to my bed to have a good rest and be ready in time for the train next morning. Awakening early in the morning I paid for the use of the room and bed and started out and was at the depot long before the time of leaving, secured a seat to be sure that the train did not again leave without me and awaited with inpatience its departure;

“On the Way”, Aug 6^th 63

at the regular hour the whistle blew, the conductor shouted “All aboard!” and off we went, I on my way rejoicing, that evening would find me at Walhalla with Mother and Brother, and relatives and friends, many of whom I had not seen for an even longer time than the former.

Weary of rail road travel, the Greenville, and more so the Blue Ridge road with their “slow coach speed” and many stopping [87] places did not tend to better it any; the whistle of the engine which to me was at other times an agreeable sound got to be a perfect nuisance, while the backing and jolting of the cars as they would stop at the numerous stations did not tend to ease a person’s state of mind, a relief was to note the familiar faces of Charlestonians, mostly ladies, at the various depots and towns as we passed, who were refuged from our beleaguered city.

Knowing that I had to change cars at Belton, I was at every stopping place towards the last afraid that I might miss the place and go through, but of this anxiety I was soon relieved by the welcome order: “Change cars for Anderson!” which I was not long in doing and was soon on my way to the latter place where I was again to change for Walhalla on the Blue Ridge road, which was soon effected and passing Perryville and Pendleton beside the many small stations found myself about 9 o’clock on the 27^th August 1863 at my long desired goal, Walhalla. Getting into Biemami’s [88] omnibus I was soon at the door of the temporary home of my dear Mother and Brother and clasped in their arms, while from Aunt Iager and Cousin Amelia, who lived there too, I received a hearty cordial welcome; everything that the house afforded in the line of eatables was at my disposal, Mother and Aunt trying to please me by every attention, while in fact, I could hardly, for joy of being once again with loved ones, eat anything.

Walhalla, Aug. 6^th 63

The news having spread of my arrival, Walhalla, like every other small town, being noted for the rapidity with which news or rumors circulate, I soon received visits from some of my friends, my particular one, M. I. A. Ostendorff having already met me on getting out of the omnibus. That night I slept “like a prince”, with the cool and refreshing mountain breezes blowing around me and awoke next morning enraptured with my first sight of a sunrise on the mountains; Ôtwas the beginning of a beautiful day, the sky clear and cloudless, with [89] the sun fast rising behind the mountains the blue sides of the same with an outline of rosy hue casting as it were a halo around their towering peaks, along the horizon one could distinguish “Chimney Top”, “Table Rock”, “Stump House” and the other high ones of the range; add to the beauties of that day in the country a mind free from all trouble and care, but full of hope and expectancy of greeting during the course of the day friends whom one had not seen for a long time, even years, and one can almost imagine the happy feeling that filled my heart when I opened my eyes for the first time in Walhalla; truly I can say that if I ever experienced a feeling of real happiness Ôtwas then.

After breakfast having donned my best uniform of blue and gray, I ventured forth to take a look at the town and to call on my relatives and friends. Walhalla, or as we burlesqued its name “Hog Wallow” I found to be a pleasant country place, built on two sides of a wide street, called Main Street, [90] crossed occasionally at right angles by others of which one only could see the beginning as they ran out on both sides into the woods or surrounding country; the houses with the exception of several built for hotels were comfortable but unpretentious, and very suitable therefore where they were, the inhabitants being mostly Germans of Charleston who had settled there or were refugees from the latter place I found to be sociable so much so that one could walk along the street and stop in house by house and feel sure of a hearty welcome and a cup of coffee or its substitute and brown bread in lieu of anything better. One thing I have always wondered at what the good people who first settled there found to induce them to try to make a living out of the rocky soil of the neighborhood, with the exception of some localities about the town, and the valleys in the mountains the land was very poor and hardly repaid its tillage, rocks, rocks, and everywhere rocks, and where no [91] rocks were was red clay, very little grass could be seen about, of course as I wrote before, there were some exceptions here as in every other case, some of the bottom lands, and valleys in the mountains were rich and fertile.

Having satisfied my curiosity about the place itself I turned my attention to some of its inhabitants in whom I felt a concern, and first paid my devoirs to Mr. I. M. Ostendorff and family by whom I was warmly received, and where I soon felt myself quite at home; I was quite surprised to find the Misses Ostendorff, Smilie and Adela, who I remembered in Charleston, before the family left to settle in Walhalla, as but small girls grown up to be quite young ladies, not thinking of the number of years that had also passed over my own head since then, I was quite favorably impressed by their cordial and unaffected manner. Having passed a very agreeable hour in conversation, recalling mostly our school days, I took leave to go to call on others. I visited my Aunt Riecke and Cousins Mary, [92] Juliana, Gertrude and Anna by all of whom I was warmly greeted, of the latter in those days what shall I say to pay tribute to her happy smiling face and ringing laugh, alas; so soon to be hidden and hushed by death and the grave; gay lighthearted Anna! I shall at least inscribe one thought of your memory, peace to your Ashes! and ever green the memory of your hearty ringing laugh. My other lady friends, Misses Adeline Fehrenbach, Joanna Ostendorff, Annie Rochan, Maria and Carie Ausell, and Mrs. Julia Schroder were all called on and were glad to see me; thus in visiting from house to house I spent a very agreeable time, and so the first day of my visit passed. The next day Mother and Aunt hired a carriage to show me the surrounding country, having a pleasant ride and partaking of milk and brown bread at Mrs. Hode’s the owner of the house in which we lived. Although I visited my other friends, most of the time was spent at Ostendorff’s where I soon became as if I were one [93] of the family.

Powder Mill & “Isaquiena Falls”

A few days before the time of my departure for camp which was to be on the 6^th Sept., I in company with John Ostendorff paid a visit to the powder mill belonging to Mr. Ostendorff, of which I had heard so much, and was very anxious to see; a ride of seven miles over or rather up a rocky mountain road, in many places dangerous too, on account of having a steep declivity on its edge, we reached it in safety; on the way I remarked the peculiarity of the difference in temperature the higher we got, and became quite cool although we were in the beginning of September. Having arrived at the mill I lost no time before looking over the place, I had seen a drawing of the same by Charles Issertell who had while at Mr. Bornemann’s with me spent a summer at Walhalla, and being enraptured by the scenery at the Mill made frequent visits there; but his description gave me not half an idea of the beauty of the place, as I then saw it. There was an embodiment of beauty in wild and romantic scenery. [94]

I found myself in a pleasant valley; before me the house almost hidden on one side by an orchard the trees of which were full of delicious fruit, then just ripe, the same near enough to be picked from the window, just along side ran a mountain stream which fell just there in cascades over a precipice several hundred feet deep, in falling giving the power by which the mill, that had in the early part of the war manufactured powder for the Confederate government, was driven; these falls are known by the romantic name of “Isaquiena”, so called after an Indian girl who is said to have hidden under a shelving rock over which the cascade falls, from the pursuit of several warriors of a hostile tribe, the meanwhile thinking, not knowing the secret of her hiding place, that she had thrown herself over the precipice. While standing on that spot I longed for an artist’s skill to portray what I had so vividly pictured before me, without even the romantic saying connected with it, the scene, [95] one of so wild a beauty, was well worthy the highest skill of the art. Just before me, and but a stone’s throw from the mill, was “Stump House Mountain” and the railroad embankment for the Blue Ridge road on its way to the tunnel, the said embankment being made of the rocks and chips of granite blasted and hewn in the tunnel; in the distance around me loomed towering the Blue Ridge Mountains, true to their name, the several peaks of which like Chimney Top, Table Rock &c overtopping the others of the range; at my feet lay a fertile valley while overhead a clear blue sky with only a few fleecy clouds breaking the monotony of its ethereal hue crowned the scene, the whole forming a picture well worthy the pencil of an artist.

Tunnel Hill

I gazed enraptured around and longed to tarry there, but my friend to whom the scenery was familiar urged our departure as we wanted yet to visit the celebrated Tunnel to which a few minutes walk soon brought us; awe-struck I stood before it, I had just [96] left a beautiful work of the Creator’s, and here was its worthy accompaniment, a stupendous monument of Man’s skill and ingenuity; such I fear too will be its only use, as from the present appearances it will remain in its unfinished condition, and the thousands if not millions of dollars spent on it been thrown away; as it is it will last while ages roll over it, and all else is mouldering in ruin and decay, while the minds that projected it and the hands that worked and toiled at it have long passed away, and been forgotten. The tunnel is large enough for the tallest wagon load of hay to pass into it, the same cut into the solid granite of Stump House Mountain, having reached the depth of several hundred yards; we entered and I found the same as icey cold as if it were a huge refrigerator, water was constantly dripping from its top and sides and covering the bottom to the depth of several feet, a single plank as a sort of bridge being placed its entire length to walk on; while walking along this plank my friend in a sort [97] of playful mood accidently upset me off the same so that I came down “on all fours”, being at the time heated from climbing the mountain this cold bath proved itself rather more serious than funny, causing me by the time I reached home to feel its effects in the shape of a severe cold. Returning from the tunnel to the mill we picked some peaches for our own eating, and for those at home, after which we started homewards, reaching there late in the afternoon with a good appetite for dinner I, with the exception of the prospects of my approaching indisposition, being much pleased with the trip; by evening my malady had shown itself fairly, and made the last days of my stay rather disagreeable ones; the day for my departure arrived, and my cold having rather increased than abated any I was compelled to defer my leaving a day or two, thus on the day I should have reached camp, the 9^th Sept. I only started on my return to same. The day before I left for camp my cousins and several of my friends visited us to spend the last afternoon of my [98] stay with me and to bid me “good bye”, when we had a very agreeable time receiving from the company on parting their best wishes for a speed and safe return. Having packed my knapsack, and had my haversack filled I awaited the hour of departure, half past two the next morning, a rather unreasonable hour; at 2 o’clock the omnibus stopped at the door for me, which, after having taken leave of all at home, I entered and was soon on the way to the train, once again to return to my duty, once more to fill my place in the ranks of my country’s defenders, though it was not without a heavy heart that I bade my loved ones good bye. Safe on the train the hour of departure soon arrived, the whistle blew and the wheels began to move, slowly at first and then faster and faster, bearing me away from all that I held dear, and whom, perhaps by the fate of war I may never see again. If before the blowing of the whistle and the smoke and dirt and noise of the train proved a nuisance to me, how much more so now, then the [99] thought of meeting gleamed like “a polar star” before me and the thought of the pleasures to come made me overlook or bear the inconveniences of the way up, now no bright ray illuminated the future, the stern realities of war awaited me, with perhaps a death of the field of battle. Arriving at Columbia that evening I spent the night in true soldier style at the depot to await the departure of the train for Charleston early next morning; wrapped in my overcoat with my knapsack for a pillow I enjoyed a tolerable night’s rest and was awakened by the noise of the preparations for the leaving of the train; which having entered, was once again on the way arriving in the city at dark tired and dusty. I again reported myself at Hartz’s where I was, as usual, cordially greeted, and after a good night’s rest left next morning for camp on John’s Island, where on my arrival I found that Lieut. Hosey had been relieved by Lieut. Whilden to whom I reported, sending my excuse for overstaying my furlough, which was readily accepted, the Physician’s Certificate [100] of my indisposition reaching him only the next day, although I had sent it on the day I should have left Walhalla.