Early Settlers of Davidson County-Brief Reminiscences of those living on the Different Roads leading out
of Nashville as early as 1809-Magistrates of the County.

           The following recollections of Col. Willoughby Williams, an old resident of Nashville and former sheriff of Davidson County, begin with the year 1809. They form a valuable contribution to the early history of the county, by preserving the names, locations, and many facts of interest respecting a large number of citizens who resided, at the period of which he writes, on the different roads leading in and out of Nashville.

           The most important road leading to and from Nashville at that time, and up to the building of the turnpike road, was the Murfreesboro' dirt road, which led from the public square on Market Street, out by the old Cumberland College to where Mr. John Trimble now resides, then on, crossing Mill Creek at R. C. Foster's mill. The first prominent citizen on this road was Col. Joel Lewis, who had a brother living, at Fairfield,-William Terrel Lewis,-which was afterwards the home of William B. Lewis. There was no road leading by William B. Lewis' house; a lane, however, extended to the Murfreesboro' road, and this was the road to Fairfield, the stopping- place of Gen. Jackson when he visited Nashville.

           Col. Joel Lewis was the father of Mrs. Thomas Claiborne, who was the widow of James King, a wealthy merchant, and brother of William King, the Owner of "King's Salt-Works" in Virginia. He had other daughters and sons, John H. Lewis, a lawyer, who moved to Huntsville, Ala., at an early day; William Terrel Lewis, who lived at Fairfield, had five or six daughters. Dr. Claiborne, a brother of Governor Claiborne, of New Orleans, married the eldest daughter, who died early in life, leaving two children, Micajah G. L. and Mary Claiborne. She afterwards married Abram P. Murry, a very prominent man, and once an editor of a Nashville paper. Alfred Balch, John H. Eaton, and William B. Lewis married three other daughters, all of whom died soon after marriage. The youngest daughter, Whose name was Charlotte lived some years before marrying but finally married Maj. Baker, of New Orleans, and died soon afterwards.

           Maj. William B. Lewis, although of the same name, was not related.; he had two children who inherited the home of William Terrel Lewis. There is where William B. Lewis became the confidential friend of Gen. Jackson.

           A few miles farther on this road forked, one branch going to Lebanon by Buchanan's mill. The most prominent citizen on this road was Col. Michael Campbell, an early settler and large land- owner, and the grandfather of Col. Campbell Goodlett, a lawyer of Nashville. At the crossing of Mill Creek, on this road, was where Maj. John Buchanan built his famous "Fort" which served as a protection from the assaults of the Indians. Maj. Buchanan left several sons, from whom much information can be obtained. This road continues on by Walter Sims' to Thomas Harding's, by Jackson and Coffee's old storehouse, crossing Stone's River, passing Timothy Dodson's, to the Hermitage. Mr. Dodson was a successful farmer, and left several sons, who reside at the old homestead.

           The Hermitage neighborhood was regarded as the best section of Davidson County, the soil being, better adapted for cotton than any other part of the country, and was settled by wealthy men and cotton-planters; Among them were Gen. Jackson, Col. Edward Ward (who was speaker of the Senate in 1817, a man of talent and fine personal appearance, was a candidate for Governor, and beaten for that office by Gen. William Carroll), Maj. William Ward, Capt. John Donelson, the brother of Mrs. Jackson and the father of Mrs. Gen. Coffee, Mrs. McLemore, Mrs. William Eston, Mrs. James Martin, and Mrs. Andrew J. Donelson. Capt. Donelson was a wealthy man in lands and slaves, and a successful planter. Sevan and Severn Donelson were also brothers of Mrs. Jackson. Gen. Thomas Overton, the friend of Gen. Jackson in the duel with Charles Dickinson, Dr. Hadley, Capt. Moseley, the stepfather of John L. Brown, of Nashville, and others, all lived in this neighborhood.

           There also lived here John Anthony Winston and brother, two very prominent men, who emigrated to Alabama and settled near Tuscumbia. They are the ancestors of the numerous Winstons in that state among whom was Governor John A. Winston.

           In the same neighborhood lived a large family of Gleaves, early settlers and prominent men, some of whom are still living.

           On the Murfreesboro' fork of this road the first prominent citizen was Robert C. Foster, the father of Ephraim H. Foster and other sons, who were all prominent men. He had no daughters. Mr. Foster was one of the very best men of the county, a leading magistrate, and a Christian gentleman, a member of the Legislature, and once a candidate for Governor in opposition to Governor McMinn. He erected a large mill upon Mill Creek, which was a great convenience to the neighborhood. The next man was Mr. Kennedy, the father of Mrs. Hettie McEwen and Judge Kennedy, who moved to Lincoln County in 1808 or 1809. Mr. Murphy came next as an early and respectable settler. In this section lived Esquire Samuel Bell, the father of Hon. John Bell, a distinguished statesman of Tennessee, who was born on Mill Creek. Also, Col. Thomas Williamson, one of Jackson's colonels in the Creek war and at New Orleans, who was regarded as a brave, gallant, and chivalrous gentleman, was a member of the legislature of Tennessee in 1817, representing the lower house with the Hon. James Trimble, in session at Knoxville; and Esquire E. H. East, the father of Judge East of Nashville, a man of positive character, fearless and independent in his expression of' opinion of men and measures, and one of the most ardent Whg-S of the county. Then comes John Sangster, who kept tavern on the hill ; next Esquire King, a clever, wealthy citizen, who lived where Dempsey Weaver now lives. Then Mrs. Vaulx, living near the present Hospital for the Insane; she was the mother of the late Joseph Vaulx and James Vaulx, the latter being then a large locator of lands in the western district. In this neighborhood lived Charles Hays, the grandfather of Thomas Hays and Mrs. Samuel Murphy, a prominent citizen, Christian man, and the founder of the Baptist Church at Antioch. Next came Buchanan's tavern, a noted house of entertainment near Smyrna.

           The next road leading from Nashville commenced on College Street, passing the city cemetery, crossing Brown's Creek just above the railroad-crossing. The first prominent man on this road was Mr. John Rains, the grandfather of Robertson Rains. Then came Mr. Ridley, an early settler, who raised a large family; two of his sons, Moses and Henry Ridley, lived on Stuart's Creek, in Rutherford County, and were large cotton-planters, prominent and influential men. Another son was James Ridley be was a noted citizen of Davidson County. The next man worthy of note was Michael C. Dunn, a very intelligent man, once sheriff of Davidson County, who married the daughter of John Rains. He raised a large family of talented sons and daughters, one of whom is William D. Dunn, a lawyer and wealthy citizen of Mobile, and also the grandfather of Mrs. Joseph W. Horton. William Dickson, once a senator in Congress, lived on this road; and Hinchy Petway owned the place afterwards. The next man was Jonas Menifee, an old settler, owning a fine body of land, which was his "Headright," now owned by Melville Williams. The next place was John Topp's, the father of four sons, all prominent men in Tennessee and Mississippi; Robertson Topp, of Memphis; Mrs. Thomas Martin, of Pulaski, the mother of Mrs. Judge Spofford; and Mrs. Claiborne, who lives on Spruce Street. The next man was Judge John Haywood, a learned lawyer of North Carolina, judge of the Supreme Court of Tennessee, and an ornament to the legal profession, who lived and died and was buried on this place. Next was Dr. William Moore, a son-in-law of Judge Haywood, who moved at an early day to Huntsville. In this neighborhood lived W. H. Nance, a magistrate of the county and a leading member or the Baptist Church, full of energy and devotion to the public good. Then comes Benajah Gray, an intelligent, leading man and one of the magistrates of the county. Mr. Enoch Ensley also lived in this neighborhood; he was a constable with great money making capacity and became one of the wealthy men of Tennessee. Esquire Herbert Towns lived in this neighborhood, he was a magistrate and a man of intelligence, from whom much infromation can be obtained, as he is still living. This road was known then as the "Fishing Ford" of Duck River, passing Hardiman's crossroads, now known as the Nolansville Pike.

           The next road leading from Nashville was called the Upper Franklin, now known as the Franklin Turnpike. It passes out Spruce Street by the custom-house. The first prominent man on the road was Joseph Coleman, who was an officer in the United States army. He built the first fine house, which still stands behind the undertaking establishment of Groomes & Co., on Cherry Street, owned afterwards by Josiah Nichol. He also built the house on College Hill formerly owned by Maj. Rutledge, now the residence of Edward Baxter. Mr. Coleman also built the house of Mr. Joseph W. Horton, where he lived and died.

           The next man of note was George Michael Deaderick, who lived at the place now owned by the Robert Wood's estate. He was the first president of the old Nashville Bank, and a wealthy leading citizen of Nashville.

           Then came Thomas Thompson, the father of the late John Thompson, both of whom lived and died on this place. Also, in this neighborhood lived Jason Thompson, who married a sister of Judge McNairy, also the grandfather of Emmett Thompson, of Lebanon. John Overton, known throughout the State as a man of great legal ability and the wealthiest man in the State. Next man was Thomas Edmondson, one of the best citizens of the county, and a leading magistrate. He possessed the entire confidence of Judge Overton, his near neighbor. The next early settler was Robert Scales, a very clever gentleman.

           The next road was called the Middle Franklin, now known as the Granny White Pike. The first prominent men on this road were Dr. James Overton and Robert B. Curry, who lived on what is called Curry's Hill. The next place was Nathan Ewing's, where Dr. Gale now resides. Then Tanner Johnson, a clever Christian man and an early settler. The heirs of Mr. John Johns now own his place. You next came to Judge John Overton's lands, now owned by Judge John M. Lea. Then came the "Tavern of Granny White," where all travelers from Franklin and Nashville were entertained. In this same neighborhood lived Edwin Smith, a well-known citizen of that section.

           The next road was known as the Richland Creek and Wharton road, which forked at Cockrill's Spring. This road led from Church Street by the Female Academy, round to Ceder Street or Charlotte road, running With that road and turning towards Maj. Boyd's residence, now owned by Hal. Hays. Maj. Boyd owned the entire land from the Charlotte to the Granny White Pike, all being a corn-field. The road by the State Prison was not opened until about 1830. Cockrill's Spring was a noted place,-the preemption title or claim of John Cockrill, who married a sister of Gen. James Robertson, also one of the first settlers of this country. One of his sons was the late Mark R. Cockrill.

           On the Wharton road the first prominent man was Jesse Wharton, who married the daughter of Joseph Phillips, and was a retired lawyer, once a member of Congress from the Nashville district, and candidate for Governor in opposition to Governor McMinn; also a magistrate of Davidson County. The next man was Andrew Castleman, a brother-in-law of Nathan Ewing, a pure Christian gentleman, universally beloved, who settled on his pre-emption title, and there lived and died, leaving many descendants, among, whom is Robert B. Castleman now living in Nashville. Then came William Compton, a successful trader. Next Stockell's Meeting-house, in the neighborhood of which a large family of McCutcheons lived, all good citizens and Christian men. At this "Meeting-bouse," on Little Harpeth River, ten miles from Nashville, the Rev. William Hume preached once a month, from 1817 up to the time of his death. In this neighborhood lived Maj. William Edmondson, a prominent man in his section, and was one of Gen. Jackson's soldiers at the battles of the Creek war and New Orleans. This road is known as the Hillsboro' Pike, now leading from Nashville.

           I now return to the other fork leading from Cockrill's Spring to Richland Creek, which was known as the Harding Pike. The first man of note on this road was Capt. Joseph Erwin, who settled on this place in 1805. He was a very wealthy man, having large sugar-plantations at Plaquemine, La., tbough he resided in Tennessee. He was the father-in-law of Charles Dickinson, who was killed by Gen. Jackson in a duel, and was buried on this place, near the turnpike. Dickinson also lived in this neighborhood, in sight, on the opposite side of the road. Capt. Erwin was the uncle of Governor Newton Cannon and was the friend and backer of Cannon in the great Clover-Bottom race between Gen. Jackson and Governor Cannon, which resulted in the duel between Dickinson and Jackson. The next man was Charles Bosley, a brother of John Bosley, who married the sister of Gen. Robertson. Mr. Charles Bosley was a large trader and operator at Natchez, Miss., and settled on this place in 1818. I neglected to mention some points of interest in regard to Capt. Erwin which are important. He raised a large family, among them three daughters, one of whom married Charles Dickinson; after his death, she married Mr. John B. Craighead; another married Col. Andrew Hynes, and a third married William Blount Robertson, a brother of Dr. Felix Robertson. He was a lawyer by profession, owned and lived at the place where Mark Cockrill lived and died. The next man was Capt. John Nichols, who settled on his place in 1807. He was the bosom friend of Capt. Erwin and Mr. Charles Dickinson.

           The next man was James Maxwell, a Scotchman, who owned and lived on the place of tile late Archer Cheatham. The next man was Mr. John Harding, one of the most industrious, and successful men of the county. He settled in a populous neighborhood, and finally owned the entire section. He was the father of William Giles Harding, of Belle-Meade. Next was Mr. Giles Harding, a brother of John Harding, who lived on the place owned afterwards by Maj. Daniel Graham, who was one or the best-informed men of that age, who filled the offices of Secretary of State, comptroller, and cashier of the Bank of Tennessee with the highest honor.

           Crossing Harpeth Ridge you come to the Demoss settlement, a fine section of country, settled by four brothers, the most prominent and intelligent of whom was Esquire Abram Demoss, the father of Judge Abram Demoss, of the Nashville bar' Esquire Abram Dernoss built a fine grist- and saw-mill over Big Harpeth, which was of vast importance to the neighborhood. Ile married the daughter of Mr. William Newsom, a lady of fine executive ability, who aided him in the management of his affairs and contributed largely towards his success in life. He was long a prominent magistrate of the county. In this neighborhood lived Esquire John Davis, the county surveyor, a man more universally beloved and esteemed than any man in the county for his integrity, honesty, and benevolence. He was the grandfather of Ed. D. Hick, of the Commercial Insurance Company, and one of the earliest settlers of the county. Crossing Harpeth you came to "Edney's Meetin-house," at Tank where all the neighborhood gathered to hear Rev. Mr. Edney, a Methodist minister, as early as the year 1812. The next man was Mr. Thomas Allison, who lived on South Harpeth. Mr. Allison was a leading man in this part of the country, and one of the first Van Buren men in the county. His son, Thomas Allison now lives at the old homestead. Farther down South Harpeth there was a large family of Greers, and a very prominent magistrate, William H. Shelton, who was a leading man in his section, and one of the few outspoken Crawford men at that day, when Crawford was a candidate for President. He was also quite a military man, and was familiarly known as "Baron Steuben," from his efforts to instill those well known tactics in the minds of the soldiers of that day.

           The next road leading from Nashville out by Charlotte, now known as the Charlotte Pike, was second in importance to the Murfreesboro' road, as it led west, and was greatly traveled by emigrants. The first man of note on this road was Matthew Barrow, who lived on the opposite side of the road from what is known as Barrow's Hill, in a little frame house. He moved afterwards to Barrow's Hill, now the "Yellow Fever Hospital," where be died. The next man was Dr. Peyton Robertson, a son of Gen. James Robertson. This was the beginning of Robertson's Bend, owned and occupied by the descendants of Gen. James Robertson. Near this place lived John Bosley, who married the sister of Gen. Robertson, and was one of the first settlers of the county. Above the crossing of Richland Creek lived Robert Hewitt, who owned a large tract of land. One of his daughters married Edwin H. Childress, who lived at the old homestead. Dr. Felix Robertson owned a large tract of land on the right of the road, on which he planted a large vineyard in 1818. The place was afterwards owned by Brent Spence.

           Next, William E. Watkins, who also married a daughter of Mr. Hewitt; he was a thrifty citizen of this county.

           Then came William Blount Robertson, a lawyer and a son of Gen. James Robertson, who married a daughter, of Capt. Joseph Erwin.

           Next was B. J. Joslin, one of the most noted men of that day, who lived at a place called Hillsboro'. He held the mail contracts leading south to New Orleans, and was familiarly known as "Old B. J."

Next was Col. "Dick" Boyd, who commanded a regiment in the Creek war, a brave soldier, and afterwards a leading man in all the elections. He married the daughter of Josiah Horton, who was once sheriff of Davidson County, and the father of Joseph W. Horton, also sheriff of Davidson County.

           Next was a family of Gowers, early settlers, for whom Gower's Island in the Cumberland was called.

           Then we came to the ridge on the top of which lived Christopher Robertson, who kept a tavern, which was the general stopping-place. Not far front here was a road leading to Sam's Creek Springs, a noted place of resort for the old families of the county.

           The next place was Dog Creek, on whose waters lived Martin Ussery, an old settler. After crossing Big Harpeth, at the mouth of this creek lived Thomas Osborn, a clever man and early settler.

Below the crossing lived Thomas Scott, the leading magistrate of the county; also Jeremiah Baxter, the father of Judge Nathaniel Baxter.

           Next came old Mr. Rape, who lived in that neighborhood. It was here that Montgomery Bell, the "Iron King" of that day, constructed a tunnel, changing the course of the river, at the feet of which he erected large iron-works. On the waters of Sam's Creek, leading into the Cumberland, lived Jesse Cullom, who raised a large family of sons. At the mouth of this creek lived William Shelton. On the waters of Pond Creek, near this creek, lived a large family of Hoopers, among whom is John Hooper, ninety years old, and still living.

           On the Cumberland, near the Shoals, lived Enoch Dozier, a wealthy man, good citizen, and a large landowner. He has two sons, Dennis and Willoughby Dozier, still living in the same neighborhood.

           The magistrates of the county at that day were appointed by the Governor, and selected from the most intelligent and best men of the county. The office was held by them for the public good, as there was very little profit attached to the office. This is why I have mentioned them so often.

          

IMPORTANT ROADS LEADING FROM NASHVILLE ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE RIVER

           There were at that day two ferries on the Cumberland, one at the mouth of Wilson Spring Branch, above the present wharf; the other was near the Sulphur Spring Branch, and was the main crossing going to Gallatin and to Springfield. There was a third, called Page's Ferry, near the race-track, where the rivers was fordable in low water. On the Gallatin road lived Col. Robert Weakley, a very prominent citizen of the county. He was afterwards a member of the Legislature and once a candidate for Governor; was also a leading magistrate of the county, a very influential citizen, and one of the first settlers of the county. Near him lived David Vaughn, a very wealthy man and the father of Michael ind Hiram Vaughn.

           Then Mr. William Williams, a retired lawyer and a man of fine intelligence, Josiah Williams, and Thomas Martin, all sons-in-law of gMr. Joseph Phillips, a leading wealthy citizen.

           Mrs. Martin is still living, in her eighty-seventh year, at her old home.

           Just beyond Mr. Williams lived Samuel Love, near Haysboro', which place was settled about the time Nashville was, and for some time there was great competition between tbe two places. This place was settled by Col. Robert Hays, who married the sister of Mrs. Jackson, and was the father of Col. Stockley P. Hays and the father-in-law of Dr. William E. Butler and Robert I. Chester, both of whom are now living at Jackson, Tenn.

           Near Haysboro' lived the Rev. Thomas B. Craighead, a learned Presbyterian preacher and a very patriotic citizen. He built a large church near his residence, and the cemetery near the church contains the remains of most of the prominent citizens of that day.

           Mr. Maxey, the father of Powhatan and Dr. William Maxey, lived at this place.

           Dr. William Gwin, the son of Parson Gwin, who was the life-long friend of Jackson, lived here. He was a senator from California, and is still living.

           The next man was Blind-man Walker. Dr. William Maxey, "Gee's Tavern," and Reuben Payne, an enterprising merchant at the mouth of Dry Creek.

           The next early settler was Col. William Donelson, a very wealthy man and brother of Mrs. Jackson. His granddaughter married Senator McAdoo, of Waverly.

           Then Mr. Paul Dismukes, living on Mansker's Creek, who raised a large family of sons and daughters, among whom was John T. Dismukes, a very intelligent and prominent man, who died early in life. There was a road passing up Mansker's Creek, by Dr. Dunn's spring near Goodletsville, up said creek to E. P. Connell's and John Bowers', both prominent men in this county. E. P. Connell was once candidate for county clerk, and was an intelligent magistrate of the county.

Between the Gallatin and Springfield roads there were two country roads. On one of these roads lived a noted turfman, -Duke W. Sumner. He owned many fine racehorses. Near him lived Mr. George Wharton, a brother of Jesse Wharton, one of whose daughters married Gen. William White, who fought a duel with Gen. Samuel Houston. Another daughter married Mr. Samuel Seay, long a prominent merchant of Nashville, at whose wedding I officiated as groomsman nearly sixty years ago. He was the father of George W. Seay.

           Claiborne Hooper also lived in this neighborhood, a wealthy, prominent man, and the father of the Hooper who had the difficulty with Nance.

           There also lived in this neighborhood Thomas Shannon, a leading magistrate of the county. Then came Michael Gleaves, the father of John E. Gleaves, late clerk of the Chancery Court - Col. Jesse J. Everett, a prominent citizen and the father of Mr. Everett, the county register. He was colonel of a regiment of militia, which embraced the entire county on the north side of the river.

           The road to Spingfield and Clarksville passed Page's and Hyde's Ferry.

           Mr. Page lived on the first bluff below Nashville, which was afterwards owned by Judge William L. Brown, a distinguished lawyer of Tennessee and one of the judges of the Supreme Court. He died at this place, and his remains were buried in an excavation in the bluff overlooking the Cumberland River. Next, Charles Moorman, a magistrate of the county, and a good citizen and a wealthy man.

           We now come to White's Creek, which was rarely owned by the Stumps, wealthy and influential men of' that day. Col. John Stump was one of the largest operators of that day and a prominent merchant of Nashville, under the firm of Stump & Cox, who traded in everything raised in the county. They possessed the most unlimited confidence of that section, the people depositing all moneys with them. The firm failed in 1818 and produced widespread ruin throughout the county. Col. Stumps was afterwards a large locator of lands in the mountains of Tennessee, North Carolina, and Georgia.

           On this creek lived two noted men, Isaac and Lewis Earthman ; Buchanan H. Lanier, the father of the commission merchant at Nashville, and two brothers, Laban and Freeman Abernathy.

           We next come to Paradise Hill, on the top of which Esquire Thomas Shannon erected a large brick house. Here the road forks, one going to Clarksville and the other to Springfield.

           Maj. Thomas Hickman, an early settler, lived at Hickman's Ferry, on the Cumberland, about twelve miles below Nashville. He was an early settler, a justice of the peace, and once sheriff of Davidson County. His only daughter married George W. L. Marr, a member of Congress from the Clarksville district and a very wealthy man. Below Hickman's Ferry, on Sycamore Creek, now Cheatham County, but at that time Davidson, was a large settlement, among whom were Thomas Shearon, a wealthy gentleman; Wilson Crockett, the magistrate of the county; William Hollis, Mr. Brinkley, Mr. Demombrune; also Mr. Eaton, an old settler and very intelligent man.

           The road leading from Nashville to Hyde's Ferry passed between the lands of David McGavock and Beal Bosley, two of the first settlers and owners of large bodies of land, and very wealthy men. Mr. McGavock lived on and owned the place where the cotton-factory now stands. In the rear of this farm is where the duel between Jesse Benton and Gen. Carroll took place. Crossing the river at this point you came to the Hyde settlement, two of whom were Richard and Tazewell Hyde, both early settlers and clever, rich men.

           This road also led to White's Creek, on whose waters also lived Gilbert Marshall and his father; and Joseph L. Ewing, who married a daughter of David McGavock.

           WILLOUGHBY WILLIAMS
Born in the year 1798; now in my
eighty-second year; mind and
memory unimpaired by age.

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