Lopez Island has an area of forty square miles, exclusive of government reserves, and of all the islands of San Juan County presents the largest proportion of tillable soil. The valleys of this island embrace acre after acre of the most fertile land under the sun and charm and delight the eye with their beautiful fields and well-kept, attractive orchards. The island is comparatively level and there are no wastelands of any consequence. Most excellent roads cover it from end to end and lead in all directions. The development of the island and its growth has been phenomenal. From north to south it is one grand valley, and were it all cleared up the view would be one of a large garden. The land in most instances is a rich loam, with clay subsoil, but many tracts are of the renowned alder bottom kind, and some are marsh lands which when cleared make the finest farms in the world for fertility and productiveness.
The People of Lopez are most hospitable and entertaining, it is a saying that no one on Lopez, be he stranger or friend, knocks in vain when seeking food or shelter, and of all the islands the residents on this island especially appear to be prosperous and well off. The finest and largest homes and residences in the county are found on Lopez. Religions and educational facilities are of the best here, and it is no vain boast of the residents that when the country is cleared up on this island it will be the most favored of the islands of this group. In addition to agriculture and fruit raising, the best fishing in the State for salmon fishing is along this island’s borders, of which especial mention will be made elsewhere. The water here is abundant, and because of the lack of limestone is not tinctured with that quality. The island has the service of two boats daily and has every advantage to ship its products to the markets. The principal places are Lopez, Richardson and Port Stanley.
Lopez is situated on the western shores of the northern part of the island. It is a lively trade center and has the accommodations of a wharf and warehouse, with steamboat service daily to the north, east and south. It is surrounded by a most excellent farming country, which is undergoing the process of being settled and cleared. Extensive and profitable fruit farms ship from this point to Seattle and Whatcom and some of the best hay and grain ranches in the State lie to the south. Beautiful homes, well-kept orchards, fine horses and vehicles, bicycles, and other characteristic possessions tell the tale of prosperity here better than words.
Excellent roads, kept up in the best of repair, extend in all directions and make riding, driving and hauling to all parts of the island a pleasure as well as a duty. James Nelson, the oldest settler on the island, resides near this place, and came here in 1862. He still lives on the ranch where he settled. The same year Charles Brown located here. That one may form a more complete idea of the business and occupations of those here, we give sketches of the prominent and progressive residents.
An institution of magnificent proportions and of wide importance in the commercial and industrial circles of this county is the “Gem Farm,” which is situated two miles north of Lopez and is a town all in itself. Here is embraced a ranch of over 800 acres, under cultivation and in grazing lands, than which there is no finer in the State. An orchard of 500 prolific fruit trees of the choicest selections of apples, pears, plums, cherries, etc., is one of the principal features of the place. However, especial attention is called to the chicken industry, where only the best breeds are raised, and care is taken to have them all full-blooded and of select varieties. One breeding house 20x125 feet is incubators, with a capacity of 500 eggs at one time, are used, also brooder houses and fine outdoor brooders, everything being according to the latest improved methods. They have now on hand from 700 to 1,000 chickens. They have sold Plymouth Rock cockerels for from $2.50 to $20 and hens $6 apiece for breeding purposes, and maintain the only breeding houses in this State. They also keep two magnificent White Holland turkey gobblers for breeding purposes—the only ones known in the Northwest.
At the Gem Farm Is also kept a fine drove of Jersey cows—full-blooded—and much attention is paid to dairying. The one aim at this institution is to have the best of the best and only deal in blooded cattle and chickens, and the products of this place are fast becoming recognized for their superiority. Mr. Ben Lichtenberg, the proprietor, is the son of Judge I. J. Lichtenberg, who established this place in 1897. Judge Lichtenberg is a native of New York City, born in 1845, attended the Academy of New York, now the College of New York, until the war broke out, when he enlisted in Company B, Fifth New York Cavalry. He was wounded in 1864 in the battle of the Wilderness and carried the lead until 1889, when his leg was amputated. He was admitted to practice law in Pennsylvania in 1874 and came west to Washington in 1887, settling in Seattle. He was the first superior court Judge of King County when the Territory became a State, holding the office from 1889 to 1894. He married Miss Emmat Barr of Pottsville, Pa., in 1872, and with his wife is now living retired with his only child.
As the San Juan Islands are composed of numerous separate and distinct territories, the office of the general store has become one of much importance. Hence we find almost all the business of this county carried on in general stores. Among the commercial and trade establishments of San Juan County we notice the institution conducted by Mr. C.
T. Butler at Lopez, where he occupies a roomy, capacious building, warehouses, etc., and operates the wharf. A stock of general wares and merchandise is carried, including dry goods and notions, boots and shoes, hats and furnishings, glassware, crockery, paints, oils, etc., fancy and staple groceries, flour, feed and provisions—in fact, all kinds and every character of useful article for home and domestic use. He also deals in butter, eggs, chickens and country produce; also, hay, grain, wool, etc. He also conducts a sheep ranch, where he has 200 head of sheep. In 1898 Mr. Butler was appointed postmaster and in the conduct of the office utilizes 102 boxes. This is a money order office. Mr. Butler came to Lopez in 1891. Mr. Butler has been quite successful and has built up a large custom through his fair, square
A most charming and desirable home to have is that of’ Mr. C. A. Kent, adjoining Lopez. Here is twenty acres of exceedingly rich and fertile soil, all of which is under a high state of cultivation, fruit, oats, peas, produce, hay and chickens being successfully raised. The land is the black alder bottomland, than which there is no better. Mr. Kent also has excellent water in abundance. Mr. Kent ‘is a native of Wisconsin. He was raised in Minnesota and came west to Lopez eighteen years ago. He wedded Miss Sarah Gray, of Minnesota, in 1876, and has a family of five children. What Mr. Kent has accomplished here is typical of the island and shows the large possibilities in store for those locating here. We present a view of his home. Anyone desiring information of chances to locate here will do well to write to Mr. Kent, at Lopez.
We call especial attention to Mr. J. P. Paine, the contractor and builder at Lopez. He is a Vermonter and came to the Coast in 1886 and located on Lopez Island in 1893. In 1876 he married Miss Emma Prescott, also of Vermont. Mr. Paine learned his trade in his native state and is one of’ the best men in his line in this county. He built the Lopez church, finished Mr. Peterson’s house on San Juan Island and is now engaged in completing a home for himself, of which we give a view.
Mr. Cantine is a native of Michigan, and was born in 1838. In 1868 he emigrated west to the state of Illinois, where he resided until 1889, when he came to the State of Washington. Here he first located at Ellensburg for one year. Then he moved to Kirkland, where he lived for two and one-half years and engaged in contracting and building, and erected the Congregational Church at that place and several store buildings. In 1893 he moved to this county and settled at Lopez, where he has since remained. When he came on the island the forest extended down to the water in a dense labyrinth of trees standing so thick on the ground that it was almost impossible for a person to penetrate it. By hard labor and indefatigable efforts he has turned the wilderness from a waste of trees to acres of fruit-bearing orchard. Here he has 1200 thrifty and productive trees embracing varieties of apples, cherries, prunes and pears, which he ships to the city markets. Last year, which was not a very good year for fruit, he shipped 300 boxes of apples, one-half ton of cherries, 1,500 pounds of prunes, one-half ton of plums and forty cases of strawberries, all of which came from a six-year old orchard. Mr. Cantine was first married in 1860, and to his present wife in 1880. Mrs. Cantine’s maiden name was Matilda, Schooner, of Cumberland, Ohio.
The subject of this sketch is a native of the state of Presidents and was born in the year 1837. He left Virginia when eighteen years of age and emigrated west to the state of Iowa, where he engaged in farming near Cedar Falls. When the War of the Rebellion broke out he enlisted his services in the aid of his country and joined the 32nd Iowa Volunteer Infantry, becoming a member of Company B. He served from 1862 until the close of hostilities, when he returned to Iowa. He came to the coast eleven years ago and settled on Lopez Island in this county, near Lopez, where he resides at the present time. Here he has a magnificently arranged ranch of 25 acres facing Fisherman’s Bay. In 1862 he married Miss Fannie Dove of New Hartford, Iowa. At the present time Father Dove, Mrs. Bolton’s father, lives with them at the advanced age of 86 years. The principal crop Mr. Bolton raises is large and small fruits, including cherries, apples, pears, plumes, etc., and it can be truthfully said that he has as finely cared for ranch as there is in this part of the country. He is numbered among the substantial citizens of this county, and has been school director now tar the past seven years. He has a family of fine children.
The first settler to locate in the north end of Lopez Island was Wm. Humphrey, who located here twenty-three years ago. Humphrey’s Head is named for him. He has most admirable grazing lands at Upright Point on Shoalwater bay, this island, which can be bought at reasonable figures, He is a native of Canada and came to the United States in 1862, when he located at Estherville, Iowa, and engaged at his trade of cooperine. There in 1866 he married Miss Annie Graham, whose mother and brothers now live in the southern part of this island. Mr. Humphrey’s home place consists of 166 acres, of which 50 acres are cleared. He has an orchard of 600 trees, mainly apples and plums. He raises wheat, hay and chickens and operates a hay press ob his place. The soil is a sandy loam with clay subsoil and is very fertile.
We herewith present a view of the home of Mr. H. L. Coffin, who has been located here for a short time. It is one of the representative homes and shows what a person with determination and pluck can do in this place. When he first came the land was covered with a dense, almost impenetrable wilderness. Now he has a handsome and attractive home.
Among the professional men of this county is the estimable physician and surgeon, Dr. B. Muscott, of Lopez. Dr. Muscott is a new man in the community, but he is not a new man in his profession. He is a native of the state of Iowa and after completing a thorough academic education at San Bardina High school, he took up the study of medicine. He graduated from the medical department of the University of California, than which there is no better institution in this western country, and began the active duties of practicing in 1896. He is a thorough and competent practitioner and is proving very successful in the treatment of the ills of man, He has been located on Lopez Island for the last eight months and is fast becoming well and favorably known and is enjoying a liberal and increasing practice. He married Miss Gertrude Masters, of Vallejo, Cal., in 1898. Prior to coming here for one year he was intern or house surgeon at the county hospital a San Francisco and later practical at’ the Soldiers’ Home at Yountville, near Napa, Cal.
Surrounded by lands which there, is no fairer and better in the world with his children living near him on ranches of their own, we find Mr. James Blake, Sr., one of the first settlers in the northern part of Lopez Island. Mr. Blake is a native of Ireland, and was born in 1827, emigrated to Canada with his parents in 1830, and came to the United States in 1883 and settled on Lopez Island. Here he had originally 250 acres, but has sold and given to his children until he now has only 118. He raises wheat, oats, potatoes, hay, etc., and has an orchard of 300 trees so overloaded with fruit that he has been propping the limbs up to keep them from breaking. His land is alder bottom. His first wife was Miss Elizabeth A. Shannon, of Ireland, whom he married in 1851. He married his second wife, Miss Hannah Lee, of Canada, in 1879. Both of them are now deceased. He has a family of eleven children. He is one of the prosperous and successful men of the island.
A pioneer of Lopez Island is Mr. Charles Brown, who was born in Sweden in 1828. When a boy he left his native land and followed the sea until 1859, when he settled in Washington, then a territory. In 1862 he located on Lopez. During the few years prior to coming here he carried the mail from Port Townsend to the soldiers at American Camp. His family consists of eight children. Much of the early history of this country has his personality connected with it, and the fine farm upon which be is now living attests to his heroic and indefatigable efforts to make for himself a good and beautiful home. His son-in-law, Mr. E. 0. Eaton, has charge of the place and as active management. It consists of 160 acres, of which 130 are under the plow. Large crops of wheat, oats, hay, etc., are raised. Forty head of sheep find pasture and a magnificent orchard of 400 fruit trees is here found. The soil is marsh bottomland and rich loam on hillsides with clay subsoil. It is two miles from Lopez.
Half way between Lopez and Richardson lies the magnificent ranch of John Cousins, consisting of 464 acres upon which is built the largest and finest farmhouse in the county. Mr. Cousins’ land is of the characteristic peat marshlands and the black, rich loam with clay subsoil and produces immense crops. He raises grain, bay, cattle and sheep and has a fine orchard of 400 trees, including apples, plums, cherries, etc. He keeps 135 sheep and 27 head of cattle. He also owns a farm of 38 acres all cleared a few miles from Richardson with a pure, living spring upon it. Mr. Cousins is a native of Canada. He came to the United States in 1866 and located in Ohio. Two years later he moved to Iowa, and in 1871 homesteaded a place on Lopez Island, where he lived until three years ago, when he moved into the present magnificent home of which we print a very good picture. He married Miss Helen Burt of Iowa in 1880, and has a family of four hale and hearty children. He is one of San Juan County’s substantial men.
Closely identified with the growth and development of Lopez Island and San Juan County is Mr. J. S. Groll, who operates the sawmill at Lopez and is the present county commissioner. He is a public spirited and enterprising man and stands foremost in the ranks of those working to advance this county’s importance and develop its reacquiring a liberal education in the schools of his native city be began life as a builder and contractor and came West in 1898 to Snohomish County. He had charge of the construction of the paper mill at Lowell, Wash,, also of the sulphide mill. He was bridge constructor on the Great Northern Railway in 1892. In 1896 Mr. Groll came to Lopez and established the saw and planing mill here in connection with Mr. Gallanger. In 1897 he bought his partner’s interest and has operated the mill since. The plant has a capacity of twelve thousand feet of lumber daily and caters principally to the local trade. Last year Mr. Groll built the steam tug “Arthur 0” to enable him to deliver lumber to any of the islands, and be is now enjoying a trade exceeding his capacity to supply. In 1900 Mr. Groll was elected county commissioner of this county. In 1894 he married Mrs. Alice Kromer of Everett and has a family of three bright and intelligent children. In addition to other important work he has done Mr. Groll built the concentrator at Monte Cristo in 1893.
The first town which one approaches in going to San Juan County upon the steamer Lydia Thompson from Seattle is Richardson. The rugged and unpropitious shores which rise before the eye from the water’s edge give little evidence of the fertile and productive acres of land which lay immediately inland, and which constitute an agricultural district than which heart could desire no better in the world. Thus, the unfavorable conditions which upon arrival seem to fill the mind are swept away in admiration for the opportunities and scenes of progress which are seen upon all sides within the forbidding pale.
Richardson is situated at the southern extremity of Lopez Island upon Richardson Bay. The first settlement was made here thirty years ago by George Richardson, after whom the place was named. The post office was established twelve years ago, William Graham being instrumental in its location. Six years ago the people of this place and vicinity desired to have a public hall and at once money was raised by popular subscription and a fine two-story structure 40x80 feet in size was built, in which the privilege was given to the church people to hold religious services. The first thresher on the island was brought here by Mr. J. H. Bartlett, who now lives a few miles north of this place. It was a sweepstake ten-horse power affair.
The leading industry at the town of Richardson is salmon fishing, which are conducted in Richardson Bay in front of the place. In the fishing season the entire bay is filled with all kinds of fishing craft and the shores are lined with tents and huts of the fishermen, There never was a year when fish were not plentiful and of the finest varieties. During the past summer over 400 men were here engaged in this industry with from forty to fifty outfits. The fish running into Puget Sound through the Strait of Juan de Fuca strike this point first, and when fish are caught in no other locality they are caught here. During the past summer when a phenomenally large run was experienced in all places one of the purseine outfits caught so many fish in one haul that they were unable to lift the net and were compelled to let the fish go. A close estimate gives the approximate catch at this place for 1901 at over one million fish, not including many thousands of fish which were caught, and because of no market for them were dumped back into the sea, which would bring the total to about one million and a half. Geo. T. Myers & Co., of Seattle, of which company R. E. Davis is resident manager, operates four traps in this vicinity.
So great a catch was experienced this year that individuals awake to the opportunities at hand, secured thousands of salmon and began salting and packing them in barrels. Over 600 barrels were packed and more would have been accomplished in this line had not the supply of salt and barrels been consumed, with no more available.
Because of the speedy growth of Seattle and the possible crowding out of the cannery location of Geo. T. Myers at that city and because of the close proximity of the Myers Cannery trap and fishing grounds to Richardson a cannery is in contemplation to be built here very likely within a year which will materially add to the importance and business interests of this place. Talk is also heard of building a steel manufacturing plant here. Be this as it may, the fact remains that the town of Richardson is one of the best located in San Juan County and with its large agricultural pursuits in the vicinity to keep it up will continue and grow to be a place of large importance.
The commercial interests here are represented by N. 0. Hodgson, who runs the general merchandise store and operates the wharf and deals in wood for the steamboats, T. 0. Hodgson, the postmaster, who is interested in the fishing and packing of salmon, Mr. Graham, who has been and is the town’s patron, and Myers and Davis, who operate the cannery at this place. A blacksmith shop is located near Richardson on the road leading to Lopez. Excellent roads lead in all directions from Richardson and as a trading point it equals in importance any other place in the county.
All of these horses are full blooded and have reputations throughout this entire district as first-class colt-getters and superior stock. In his threshing business he has built up a large range of business and travels to all the larger islands of this county. Mr. Wright owns and operates the thresher which is a G. I. Case improved separator and can be used in threshing wheat, oats, peas, flax and all kinds of grain, while Mr. Buchanan owns and operates the steam traction engine—a 10-horse power Massilin traction engine. We present a view of the outfit at work threshing peas at the home of Chris Johnson.
Mr. Buchanan is a native of Canada and came to this country in 1867, where be located in California. Seventeen years ago he came to Lopez Island. He was first married in 1875 to Miss Mary Shewan of Nevada, who died in 1883. His present wife was Miss Jennie Hudson of Canada, whom he married in 1885. He has a family of six children—three by his first wife and three by his second. His address is Richardson.