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Highways & Byways in Galloway & Carrick

For your interest and information we ofer an index of the chapters found within Reverend CH Dick's, 1924 edition of Highways and Byways in Galloway & Carrick. This book is a good guide to the Galloway area and is of particular interest to a Wigtownshire genealogist for its anecdotal history.


Acknowledgements

Our thanks to Linda Call for her contribution.

The Book

Highways & Byways in Galloway & Carrick, was initially published by MacMillan and Co.Ltd., London, Great Britain in 1916. It has subsequently been reprinted. The reference we are using is the First Pocket Edition, published in 1924. This book also has poems, and gravestone inscriptions. Illustrations (not photographs) and descriptions of many bridges in the area.

Currently a more recent printing can be purchased through G.C. Book Publishers Ltd, 7 South Main Street, Wigtown, Scotland DG8 9EH, Tel/Fax 01988 402688, or sales@gcbooks.demon.co.uk. Owning a copy is always better than reading a transcription!

Chapter Contents

Chapter I : Maxwelltown and Lincluden

The Old Bridge on the Nith – Richard Franck – Witch-burning -- “I’m banish’t! I’m banish’t!” – The Brigend of Dumfries – “Maxwellton braes” – The Mote of Troqueer -- Lincluden – Ca’ the Yowes to the Knowes – Pennant’s notes – The Convent – The College – The tomb of the Duchess of Touraine – The Lincluden Border Ordinances – Royal guests in 1460—Their linen, wine, and postages – James the Fourth and his largesse – The last provost and his descendants – Terregles Queir – Terregles House.

Chapter II : Irongray

The grave of Helen Walker, the prototype of Jeanie Deans – The crime and condemnation of Isobel Walker – Helen’s exertions on her behalf – Helen’s history and character – Scott’s inscription on the tombstone – A Covenanters’ grave – John Welsh, minister of Irongray – The Communion Stones of Irongray

Chapter III : New Abbey

The road from Maxwelltown to New Abbey – Sweetheart Abbey – Notes on the Abbey Church – Edward the First at Sweetheart Abbey – The Archbishop of Canterbury fords the Solway to meet him – The monks prepare for the Reformation – Inscription in the churchyard – Views of the Abbey Church – The Abbot’s Tower – Kirkconnel Tower.

Chapter IV : From New Abbey to Satterness

Loch Kindar – The Solway – S. Adamnan’s adventure – Carsethorn – A tradition of Sir Robert Grierson of Lagg – Arbigland, the birthplace of Paul Jones – Old market-cross of Preston, a vanished village – Satterness – The lighthouse.

Chapter V : From Satterness to the Scaur

The ghost of the three cross-roads – The Castle of Wraiths – Allan Cunningham and the lass of Preston Mill – The Southwick coast – The old church of Southwick – The site of S. Laurence’s Chapel and Fairgirth – The coast near Douglas Hall – Shipwrecks on the Barnhourie Sands – Douglas Hall – Portling – Port o’ Warren and a smuggling tale – The White Loch of Colvend – The Scaur, or Kippford – The path to Rockcliffe – A voyage to Heston.

Chapter VI : From the Scaur to Kirkcudbright

The Round Tower of Orchardton – A possible source of Guy Mannering – Palnackie – Auchencairn – Messrs. Clark, Crain, and Quirk – The Rerwick coast – Brandy-holes – Smugglers’ routes – The racketing spirit of Ringcroft of Stocking – Stone fires – Dundrennan Abbey – Flight of Queen Mary from Langside – Hutton’s tradition of her visit to Dundrennan – Port Mary.

Chapter VII : Kirkcudbright

Lord Cockburn’s description – Houses in High Street – The Tolbooth – Loch Fergus Castle – Outline history of the Pictish Lords of Galloway – Castledykes – Kirkcudbright Castle – The Lords Kirkcudbright – Tombstones in S. Cuthbert’s Churchyard – The Caird of Barullion – Black Morrow — The port of Kirkcudbright – Invasions and rumours of invasion – Royal visitors – Travellers’ descriptions — Glimpses of old-world Kirkcudbright from the burgh records – Tongland – The old fort near Torrs Point.

Chapter VIII : Borgue and Gatehouse-of-Fleet

The old ferry at Kirkcudbright – The road to Borgue – Senwick Churchyard – The Frenchman’s Rock – Borgue – The old church of Girthon – Gatehouse-of-Fleet – The Fleet canalized – The glen of Fleet – Castramont – Rusco Castle – Anwoth and Samuel Rutherford – Archbishop Ussher’s visit – Mrs. Cousin’s verses – Epitaphs on the Gordon monument – John Bell of Whiteside, the martyr – The old road to Creetown.

Chapter IX : From Gatehouse-of-Fleet to Newton Stewart

The road – Ardwall — The wicked Laird of Cardiness – the Beech Tree’s Petition – Early records of the MacCullochs – Sir Alexander MacCulloch of Myrton – Sir Godfrey MacCulloch – Younger sons – The country of Guy Mannering – Dirk Hatteraick’s Cave – How to find it – Cassencarie – Antiquities in the parishes of Anwoth and Kirkmabreck.

More about Ardwall House can be found at this site.

Chapter X : Newton Stewart to the Dungeon

The Cree at Newton Stewart – The founding of the town – Minnigaff – Carved stones at the old church – Roads near Newton Stewart – The Cree Valley – A loch that is “nonsense “ – A bridge where there is no road – Glentrool – Robert the Bruce – Battle with the English – King Robert and the beggar woman – Another battle – The martyrs’ grave at Caldons – The Gairland Burn – Moraines – Loch Valley – The Jarkness Rig – The Murder Hole – Loch Enoch – Deformed fish – Scythe sand - The “clints” of Craignairny – Sheep in peril – Wild goats.

Chapter XI : The Cauldron of the Dungeon

The Back Hill of The Bush – The Forest of Buchan – King Robert escapes from Sir Aymer de Valence and John of Lorn – He is pursued by a bloodhound – Five Highlanders are killed – the pursuit fails – Three men with a wether – All are killed – The Cooran Lane – The Silver Flow – The truth about the Lochs of The Dungeon.

Chapter XII : Wigton

The Moss of Cree – The Bishop’s Burn – Wigton – Its old buildings – The castle and the earldom of Wigton – The convent – The harbour – The martyrs’ graves – The story of Margaret Maclachlan and Margaret Wilson – Traditions connected with the martyrdom – The stone circle of Torhouse – Heraldic panel at Mochrum Park House – The Old Place of Mochrum.

Chapter XIII : Kirkinner

The Bride of Baldoon and The Bride of Lammermoor – Symson’s description of the making of shell lime – the name of the parish – Andrew Symson, Episcopal minister and author of A Large Description of Galloway -- His relations with his parishioners – An account of the sufferers in the Persecution – Kirkinner Church – An ancient Celtic cross – The Vans Agnews of Barnbarroch – The attempted abduction of Miss Vaus of Barnbarroch in 1738.

Chapter XIV : Sorbie and Whithorn

The Forest – Dowalton Loch – Monuments in the old church of Sorbie – Garlieston – The Earls of Galloway – Cruggleton Castle – Cruggleton Church – The Isle of Whithorn – Story of a smuggler – The Isle of Whithorn Castle – S. Ninian – Candida Casa – Pious pilgrims – Whithorn – The Priory – Ancient monuments – S. Ninian’s Cave – The fort at Rispain.

Chapter XV : Monreith

The Maxwells of Monreith – John Maxwell and the Pentland Rising – The first baronet and some of his successors – The standing stones of Drumtroddan – Cup-and-ring markings – Crannogs – An ancient Celtic cross and its story – A lake sanctuary – The garden – The Right Honourable Sir Herbert Maxwell, Baronet – The house – Kirkmaiden-in-Fernis Church and the story of S. Medana – The grave of Captain Thurot.

Chapter XVI : Glenluce and New Luce

The road to Glenluce – George Borrow’s notes – The Devil of Glenluce – A witch story – Glenluce Abbey – How “the landis of Glenluse wes conqueist” – Story of Jock o’ the Horn – The Castle of Park – Stairhaven – Some smuggling incidents – The Sands of Genoch – New Luce and Alexander Peden, “the Prophet” -- Laggangairn and Craigmoddie.

Chapter XVII : From Glenluce to Newton Stewart

A moor road – Cattle-droving – Barhapple Loch – The crannog – Dernaglaur Loch – Borrow’s notes on the road – Rhododendrons at Craighlaw – Kirkcowan – The brownie – The Brownie of Blednoch – A pack-horse bridge.

Chapter XVIII : Across the Moors

Spring on The Moors – Loch Maberry –The Deil’s Dyke – Fragment near Loch Ochiltree – The Knowe and its ruined mill – Moorburn – John Mactaggart’s description – The Carseriggan Moor – The Ink Moss – Dunragit.

Chapter XIX : Stranraer

Growth of Stranraer – A Norse ship-grave? – The Royal burgh – John Livingstone – His remarkable courtship – Stranraer Castle – Claverhouse at Stranraer – North-West Castle – A sanguinary fishing-story – Sir John Ross – His first voyage in search of a North-West Passage – His second voyage – Galloway-over-Seas.

Chapter XX : Lochinch and Castle Kennedy

The White Loch of Inch – The heronry – Lochinch Castle – The grounds – The Kennedies – The Dalrymples of Stair – Viscount Stair – His family – The first Earl of Stair – The second Earl – Castle Kennedy – Soulseat Abbey.

Chapter XXI : From Stranraer to the Mull of Galloway

The Rhinns – The murder of a minister of Stoneykirk – Ancient Christian monuments at Kirkmadrine Church – The Murder Stone – The MacDoualls – Logan house and the garden – The fish-pond – Port Logan and its pier – The coast between Port Logan and the Mull – The smugglers’ cave at Breddock Bay – Drummore village and Kirkmaiden Church – S. Medana’s Chapel and the Well of the Co’ – The Double-dykes – The Mull of Galloway.

Chapter XXII : Portpatrick

Visitors to Portpatrick – Trade with Ireland – Sunday observance – Colonel Gardiner – The Gretna Green for Ireland – Peter the Great – Defoe – Bishop Pococke – Mrs. Siddons – Keats – The old church – The harbour works – Incidents of war – Dunskey Castle – Sandeel Bay – Sir William Brereton’s notes.

Chapter XXIII : Leswalt and Kirkcolm

Lochnaw Castle and the Hereditary Sheriffs of Galloway – Kempes’ Graves and Kempes’ Walks – Galdenoch Castle and its ghost – the byways of Kirkcolm – Salt Pans Bay – Smuggling story of Dally Bay – Balsarroch – Corsewall Castle – Portmullin – Celtic cross-slab at Corsewall house – S. Mary’s Croft.

Chapter XXIV : From Stranraer to Girvan

The Mote of Innermessan – Craigcaffie Castle – The Deil’s Dyke – Lochryan House – Glen App – Carrick – Ballantrae – The Warlock of Innermessan – The Stinchar Valley – Kirkdomine – the martyr’s grave in Barr Churchyard – The shore road from Ballantrae to Girvan – The ballad of May Collean – Girvan – Ailsa Craig – Its geology and history – Pennant’s notes.

Chapter XXV : The Girvan Valley

Castles and Covenanters – Old Dailly church – The charter stone – The Baron’s Stone of Killochan – Remarkable incident of an entombed miner – The Girvan Valley coalfield – The Sunday labour question in 1701 – The Burning Pit – A pit that burned for a hundred years.

Chapter XXVI : From Girvan to The Doon

Turnberry – Marjory, Countess of Carrick, and Robert Bruce – The birth of the future king – King Robert lands at Turnberry – Culzean – What Sir William Brereton saw – The grounds – Dunure – The roasting of Allan Stewart – Greenan.

Chapter XXVII : Cassillis and Auchendrayne

Cassillis – The ballad of Johnie Faa – Auchendryne – The beginning of the Carrick vendetta – The fourth Earl of Cassillis versus the Laird of Bargany – Sir Thomas Kennedy of Culzean versus the Earl – Continuance of the vendetta between the fifth Earl and the young Laird of Bargany – The young Bargany and John Mure of Auchendrayne versus Culzean – The Earl versus Bargany – The Earl’s design against Ardstinchar Castle – First attempt on the life of Culzean – The King intervenes – The Earl and his Galloway vassals – Bargany goes to his aid – Bargany’s new grievance against the Earl – A treaty of peace – Fresh trouble between the Earl and Bargany – Culzean causes a plot against the Earl’s life to miscarry – Consequent plot against Culzean betrayed by Auchendrayne – The king intervenes again – The vendetta receives fresh fuel – the Earl compasses Bargany’s death – Culzean murdered by the Bargany faction – First prosecution of the Mures – The murder of William Dalrymple – Second prosecution of the Mures – Their execution.

Chapter XXVIII : Maybole, Kirkoswald, Kirkmichael, and Straiton

Maybole – Its name – The Castle – The Collegiate Church – John Knox’s House – The Maybole martyrs – Crossraguel Abbey – Kirkoswald – “Highland-looking” – Martyr’s grave at Kirkmichael – Straiton Church – Thomas MacHaffie, the martyr – Roads beyond Straiton.

A portion of this chapter can be found at this site.

Chapter XXIX : To the Dungeon by Loch Doon

Loch Doon – The story of The Murder Hole – Tradition of Loch Doon Castle – Ancient canoes – John Stevenson, Covenanter – King Robert and the miller’s wife of Polmaddy.

Chapter XXX : Carsphairn

The road from Dalmellington to Carsphairn – A story of the Covenanters – Inscriptions in the churchyard – Antiquarian rambles – A deserted mining village – Knockgray – Captain Clark Kennedy’s notes of the wild life of the district – Two roads to Dalry.

Chapter XXXI : Dalry

The approach to Dalry – The mountains of Kells – The village – Earlston Linn – The Gordons of Earlston – Mossroddick — Lochinvar – The Holy Linn – The path to Balmaclellan – The roads to New Galloway – The Glenlee ghosts – Inscriptions in Kells Churchyard – The Garroch Glen – A pilgrims’ way – The Pentland Rising – The martyrs’ grave – The Kenmure burial aisle – The church – Names of the village – How to address letters – The Pulharrow Glen – Loch Dungeon – The Cauldron of The Dungeon – A winter sunset – Winter perils of The Cauldron.

Chapter XXXII : New Galloway to the Dungeon

New Galloway – Kenmure Castle – The Upper Bridge of Dee - King Robert and the widow of Craigencaillie and her three sons – The battle of Moss Raploch – Battles of Edward Bruce – Craigencaillie – Loch Dee –Dorgall Lane – A byway from Newton Stewart.

Chapter XXXIII : Balmaclellan, Corsock, and Crocketford

Balmaclellan – Persecution of Covenanters – Elspeth MacEwen – Monument to “Old Mortality” – Covenanter’s grave – The Headless Piper – Corsock – Sufferings of John Neilson – Lochenkit martyrs’ grave – James Clerk Maxwell – Crocketford and the Buchanites – Elspeth Simpson and Hugh White – Tenets and practices – The Midnight Manifestation – The Great Fast – The Great Fiasco – Friend Mother dies at Auchengibbert – The Society at Crocketford – Andrew Innes.

Chapter XXXIV : Castle Douglas and its Neighbourhood

Castle Douglas – Former names – Carlinwark Loch – Thrieve Castle – Archibald the Grim – William Douglas – Archibald the Tineman – The Duchess of Touraine – The fifth Earl – The sixth Earl – The black dinner – James the Gross – The eighth Earl and The Fair Maid of Galloway – James, the ninth Earl – The Douglas power is broken – Later history of the castle – Architectural features – the Levellers – Laurieston – Lochenbreck – The road from Laurieston to New Galloway – John Macmillan, minister of Balmaghie and first minister of The Reformed Presbyterian Church – Tombstones in Balmaghie Churchyard.

Chapter XXXV : From Castle Douglas to Maxwelltown

Buittle Church – Buittle Castle – Craignair and Dalbeattie – The Mote of Urr – The Old Bridge of Urr – Drumcoltran Castle – Hills Tower – Loch Rutton – An echo of the Jacobite occupation of Dumfries – Goldielea – Burns’s friendship with Mrs. Riddell.




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